23DEC2004 :: 6:19pm :: Nauchas, Namibia :: Namibgrens Guest Farm
Got up at around 6:30 this morning, got a shower, and got packed up. We had breakfast at around 7am at the Solitaire Country Lodge; they put out a buffet that was pretty tasty. We checked out and hit the road at around 8am and headed south. It was a pretty drive, with the road winding around mountians and through the plains. Saw several springboks and a few zebra on the way. We stopped at Sesriem to pay our park fees and use the restroom. We set off back the road to Sossusvlei, which is a large pan (flat area) amidst a bunch of sand dunes. The road was actually paved, but was pretty beat (undrivable in places). The gravel/unpaved public roads are much smoother to drive on. They just paved over the sand/dirt and it's deteriorated badly. Anyway, after driving for about 45 minutes, we made it to dune 45, which is a dune (45 km fromt the entrance) that runs down pretty close to the road. We climbed about 2/3 of the way up it along the ridge. It was pretty incredible: the long-distance views, the sand in your toes, the brilliant sunshine, the strong breeze across the ridge. Wow. Pretty breathtaking, all in all. You'll have to see the pictures to get a taste (which won't do it justice). There was a black and white eagle (i think) hanging out around the area, soaring up and down the dunes effortlessly and entertaining us. Saw a few big beetles, and a salamader, up on the dune face, scurrying about. We drove the rest of the way to the end of the pan, which is as far as non 4x4 vehicle can go. There is a 4x4 "taxi" which will take you the rest of the way in for N$80 (US$15) per person! We had no idea it would be so expensive; our 2002 guidebook said it was like US$3, but the exchange rates haven't changed that much. Our other option was to hike a little over a mile out to Hidden Vlei, which we opted for. We had a snack, suited/lathered up and headed out. We got about 3/4 of the way there, but weren't exactly sure what we were looking for, so stopped and reassessed. Dad went on a bit farther, but could see nothing new. I took a jaunt over and up a set of small dunes. Meanwhile, dad returned and set off again to hike the rest of the trail. I returned and the girls had had enough of the hot sun, and set off back down the trail in search of shade. I decided to go up with dad to see what could be seen. Another 1/3 of a mile up a slight, sandy rise and we were overlooking the Hidden Vlei; i caught up to him after he had been there a few minutes. A pretty cool sight to be seen. A completely flat sandy plain, surrounded by huge red sand dunes; there were a few trees growing in the vlei, which would really be a sight to behold if it rained enough to get some water in it. Hopefully the pictures my dad took will turn out (he had his camera on the 'night-time' setting). We walked back another way, along a small dune/ridge. It wasn't a long walk, but the sand was scorching and you slid around at most every step, adding to the effort required. We saw some interesting plants growing; small flowers growing erratically in the stark dunes. It is amazing what eeks out an existence in the desert. We met back up with the girls and walked back to the car. We had some lunch and hit the road back. Stopped agian at dune 45 to get a few more pictures, but the light wasn't the best for the shot I was looking for. The wind was strong enough to fill in our footprints along the ridge we had left two hours earlier. Headed out of the park and back the way we came. Heading to our next accomodations, we drove along a plain with several farms along it, right up to the base of a mountain range/ridge. Amazingly, the road headed up it, at an incredible angle (some spots were around 1:5, while the average was not too much less of a pitch). We stopped near the top to take some photos; the view was breathtaking. You could see forever to the west. We continued on the short distance to the Namibgrens Guest Farm, where we stayed the night. Took a shower and read our Advent devotional; this entry was an interesting commentary on a trip to the supposed birth spot of Christ in the Church of the Nativity. One comment that struck me: "Any patch of ground anywhere smacks more of God's presence on earth, to me, that did this marble grotto." (Annie Dillard) I think I would probably agree with her, from her description of the place. We had dinner, which was exceptional. Too much good food to describe, except that the kudu and orxy was very fantastic. After dinner, we took at walk in the cool air, then retired to our 'family room.' We hung out for while, then retired to bed.